of vague anxiety as to whether I should boilable to get accommodation for the night in the Government t bungalow for travellers, as Gaya did not contain a single hotel.

Fortunately I found a vacant room in the travellers bungalow, where I passed a most uncomfortable night under the punkah. The furniture of the room consisted of the usual table, a couple of chairs, and a bed; but there were two photographs of the great Buddh Gaya temple on the wall at the foot of my bed , which attracted my attention and somehow mingled in a most fantastic, and disagreeable manner with all my dreams during that restless night.

Long before daybreak next morning I started for Buddh Gaya in a one-horse carriage, a sort of cab with double seats and sliding doors.

The dim twilight of approaching dawn revealed street scenes even more unlovely than those I had witnessed the night before. People sleeping out in the dirty road upon cots or mats, - but more frequently upon the bare sand or mud. Cows and oxen calmly reposing in the middle of the highway; goats also and poultry, quite at home upon the streets, under the open canopy of heaven. In the hot sweltry atmosphere men and women lay asleep, contorted in every ungainly position imaginable. From some the light covering had slipped away, and left them almost if not quite naked. I had often been through Indian, towns at a very early hour of the morning, but had never before seen such a combination of squalor and repulsiveness. There was just light enough to show the hideous nightmare spectacle in all its ugliness, a spectacle so disagreeable in every way as not to be easily forgotten. The return through the same streets some hours later was more pleasant. Glorious sunlight gilded the mean huts and dirty alleys of the town-what would the East be without its sunshine? - the people were astir, all more or less clothed according to -Indian fashions, which depend but little either upon modiste or tailor.

The town of Gaya is situated near some low, barren, but not unpicturesque, hills, and is associated with the ever-memorable life and work of the founder of the Buddhist religion; it is also a famous place of Hindu …