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Route 19. Bankipur to Gaya - Page 193

bottom, containing a single figure or a group of several. They have also a central circular disc, with either an animal or bust in the centre of a lotus. No part of the upper rail seems to have been recovered, and none of the intermediate rails between the pillars are sculptured.* As the most ancient sculptured monument in India, it would be extremely interesting to have this rail fully illustrated, not so much for its artistic merit as because it is the earliest authentic monument representing manners and mythology in India." The base of the temple is 26 1/2- ft. high, and at the top of it, between its margin and the tower, is n clear space 13 ft. broad, which allowed a passage round the tower, and also gave access to a chamber in it. The tower rose about 140 ft. above this base, without counting the spiral Kalas and the finial. At each corner of the platform, by which the passage round the tower was effected, was a small temple, and below, outside Ashoka's rail, were many subordinate temples. It is very difficult to realise what the temple in its original state was, although there is a photograph of what it now is in its repaired state in Rájendralálá Mitra's book, called Buddha Gayá ; but it may perhaps be said, with some confidence, that the building was never one of great beauty,  and the inducements to visit it are its extreme antiquity, which certainly reaches to 543 B.C., and its great sanctity in the eyes of the Hindus, who reckon it in that respect on a par with Allahabad.

To the N.W. is a small but very ancient temple, in which is a figure of Buddha standing. The door has a finely-carved bar at top. It is in­tended to build an enclosing wall at about 50 ft. distant from the great temple. So far the traces of successive buildings may be clearly seen. In returning from the temple, the tra­veller may stop at the College, where the Mahant resides. There were in the possession of the Mahant a series of terra-cotta seals, which went back

. * As will he seen from what precedes, this is incorrect.

 
to the foundation of the College ; but Mr.  Clarke, sent out  by the  South Kensington Museum, has carried them all off, not leaving one, although the Museum   at Calcutta   had   certainly strong claims for a specimen.   The proprietors of the Gayá places of pil­grimage are called Gyáls or Gayáwáls. They pretend to be descended from 14 Bráhmans, who were created by Brah­ma at the time when he persuaded the demon Gayá to lie clown in order that a feast might be held on his body, and when he had done so. placed a large stone   on   him   to  keep  him  there. Gayá, however, struggled so violently that it was necessary, in order to per­suade him to be quiet, to promise that the gods would take up their abode on him  permanently, and  that  anyone who made a pilgrimage to the temple which was then built upon him should be saved from the Hindú Pandemo­nium.    Although the Gayáwáls   are treated with great consideration  at the place of pilgrimage, the respect­able Bráhmans hold them in  .small esteem, and, in fact, ''the Gayáwáls are generally a dissolute race " (sec Census of 1872).   Up to a very recent date they used to practise the most open extortion, and now, though less violent, they are hardly less successful in squeezing the hapless pilgrim. They are vary rich, and are said to be gene­rally bad landlords, and often able to evade penalties through the sanctity that attaches to their position.   Subor­dinate   to   them   are   the   Dhámins or Prestiyas, who, under their direc­tion, perform the ceremonies for the pilgrims to  Gaya.     They give one-fourth of their profits to the Gayáwáls. They are allowed to marry as many wives as they please, and may eat meat without loss of prestige.   It has been noticed   (see   Dalton's   " Descriptive Ethnology of Bengal," p. 163) that the sculptures at Buddha Gayá por­tray not Aryan, but Turanian or Kol features.    In accordance with this, there is an inscription at Buddha Gayá which mentions Phudi Chandra, who is traditionally said to have been a Chero, an aboriginal tribe.   In a com­mentary on the " Rig Veda." quoted